To many homeowners, installing a kitchen sink seems like a daunting task, but the fact is, if you can trace around a template and cut out a hole, you can install a kitchen sink.
You do want to make sure your new sink
fits your countertop and the cabinet below it, so measure the width
and depth of your lower cabinets before making a purchase.
Generally, a sink up to 22 inches deep (from front to back) will fit
in a standard 24-inch-deep cabinet if you have no backsplash; if you
do have a backsplash, your countertop will only take a sink up to 20
1/2 inches deep. Of course, your options will increase if you are
also changing your cabinetry and countertop. |
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1.
The
first step when installing a new sink is to properly site the
opening. Most sink manufacturers provide a template. Position
the template so it is centered on the sink cabinet and is at
least 1 1/2 inches back from the countertop's front edge. If
your countertop is deeper than 24 inches, place it farther
back, but not more than 4 inches. Tape the template in place,
then outline it with a marker. |
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2.
After marking the opening, remove the
template and drill a 3/8-inch-diameter hole in each corner.
Insert a saber-saw blade in one of the holes and start cutting
along the inside of the line. To prevent the cutout from
snapping off and falling through as you complete the cuts,
first screw a scrap of wood from front to back on the top of
the cutout long enough so it spans the opening, plus a couple
of inches. When you've finished, simply lift the cutout from
the template. |
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3.
Install
the faucet (see Installing a kitchen faucet for instructions) and the sink
strainers. (Doing this when you've got full access to the sink
will be much easier than fitting the pieces in from below
after the sink is installed.) Next, to create a watertight
seal between the sink and the countertop, apply a bead of
silicone caulk or plumber's putty around the entire per-imeter
of the underside of the sink's lip. |
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4.
Carefully flip the sink over and insert
into the opening, taking care not to disturb the caulk or
putty. If your sink is heavy, get help lifting and installing
it; also consider placing a couple of scraps of wood near the
edge of the opening to support the sink and protect your
fingers as you drop it into position. |
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5.
Most
sinks are pulled down tight against the countertop with
special mounting clips that hook onto the lip on the underside
of the sink and are tightened with a screwdriver or nutdriver.
Follow the manufacturer's directions for spacing these clips.
Tightening the mounting clips may cause the caulk or putty to
squeeze out from under the sink lip, so remove this excess
with a clean, soft rag. |
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6.
To
complete the project, first connect the P-trap. Join the
faucet lines to the hot and cold supply lines with flexible
supply tubes and connect the strainers to the waste line. Turn
the water on at the shut-off valves, remove the aerator from
the faucet, then turn on the water from the faucet to flush
the system. Reinstall the aerator after you've run the water
for a minute or so. |
